Lacquer paint and clear coats questions.

[midnightprowler]

That primer should be ok under lacquer but I find Rustoleum crazes plastic. I use Duplicolor primer filler. A couple of mist coats before a wet coat.
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/images ... primer.jpg

[mostrich]

Man, paint chemistry discussions are always a killer, aren't they?
Just a few of my observations:

• Enamels as a base coat can affect acrylic layers on top of it because of their long curing time. The gases it evaporates are pretty hot. When working with enamels, time is your friend.
• When working with enamel based weathering tinctures (AK and Mig for example), you should put a water/alcohol based barrier between everything that's not water/alcohol based beneath it.
• You can work with enamels on enamels or lacquers on lacquers as long as you don't flood it. So working with a brush is more prone for melting the paint beneath than thin layers done with the AB. On a certain level, you want your paint layers 'biting' into each other.
• Fully cured acrylics are rigid. You can hit them with acrylic weathering stuff as long as you avoid rubbing it in. But don't ever touch it with isopropyl or other alcohols. It'll wash away like nobody's business.
• Enamels and oils (similar chemistry) can be thrown on alcohol or water based acrylics any day.
• I don't touch the term lacquers, because manufacturers f***ed around with it like crazy lately. Mister Paint (MRP) colors for example are hard as nails when cured and can be hit with everything on top of it.
  
  So far my 1.5 cents.

[mustang1989]

There's that sealer coat I was talking about. Very well put together Torben and thanks for the input.

[jkim]

The technical data sheet for your primer describes it as an "Acrylic Modified Alkyd", whatever that means.

I have a whole slew of AK Real Colors that I've purchased from my LHS. I like Tamiya acrylics but since they don't make exact shades, mixing is required for most of my WW2 subjects, which is kind of tedious. I really like Mr Hobby Aqueous and they come in more WW2-specific colors than Tamiya but I can't get them locally. So, incorporating AK Real Colors gives me local access to exact colors that I need.

The main advantage (for me) in using AK Real Colors is their similarity to Tamiya and Mr Hobby acrylics. Based on my initial tests, the three seem to behave similarly. (The same bottle design... is that a coincidence or does that have something to do with a common origination?) AK Real Colors shoots well thinned with 91% iso alcohol, Tamiya Lacquer thinner and Mr Leveling Thinner. Oddly, they didn't mix well with Tamiya Acrylic thinner. For the majority of my modeling work, I thin Tamiya and Mr Hobby with iso alcohol and plan on doing the same with AK Real Colors.

I've read some users of AK Real Colors saying that it "stains" easily. I've not used the paint enough to experience this but I didn't notice anything unusual when I sprayed a mule with the US Navy tri-color scheme with AK Real Colors and gave it a pastel wash after shooting a clear coat over it (Alclad Aqua Gloss).

[Medicman71]

I'm taking notes cause I want to order some of the AK Real Air Colors. I love Tamiya paints but like Jkim said, they don't have the exact color shades that I need.