SPA Modeler

Medicman71 wrote:Thanks Lyle! I found the kit at HL.

Awesome!

Medicman71 wrote:Thanks Lyle! I found the kit at HL.

Great news!!! I buy those kits all the time. They are great for turning almost any regular auto kit into a pro street build as they've got everything in the kit to do it with.

I'm looking forward to it. SWMBO will help me with getting the color of the car correct. Helps to have an artist in the house.

If I didn't know any better I'd say that's a factory color from 1966 that was actually used on 1966 Nova's named Tropic Turquoise --GM Paint Code WA3495. The closest thing I've found on the available market for it is Tropical Turquoise from Testors.
Comparison Shots (of course the actual car is in the shadows and appears darker here in this photo than it would be in open light)

Actual car color:



Testors color.... Looks pretty close to me:

A shade lighter and harder to find without going to body shops or using Acrylic Lacquer from Napa Spray Can PN 78-3527 would be a color called Artesian Turquoise GM Paint Code WA3305. Personally I'd be going to a body shop to have some mixed up myself if you got this route. You've just gotta prime the plastic body well.

Nova in WA3305 paint:

Interesting. I hate using rattle cans though.

Any idea where to get racing sticker decals?

I hear you on not using rattle cans. I NEVER shoot straight from the can. I always dispense into a paint jar and shoot it through a Badger 350 AB. For one you can just about ALWAYS know that the paint to thinner ratio in a rattle can is right on and it shoots through the AB nice n' smooth with a TON more control. You just have to make sure to let the paint "gas out" after dispensing for a few minutes so you don't have any air bubbles in your paint when applying. The good thing about Testors Lacquer System rattle cans is that they have a lot of factory colors and they're safe for plastic. Automotive painting is its own animal. Lots of colors to choose from and LOTS of places to get them from. You've gotta be careful with the body shop stuff for 1:1 cars because sometimes the paint is too "hot" and you'll end up with a glob of plastic after applying it. So yes....I agree with you that using rattle cans only sucks....but the content in those cans is priceless. You'll end up with a paint job that looks like glass. You having never done an automotive subject before just let me or any of us in here know and we can walk you through an enjoyable painting process that'll produce results you'll be happy with every time.

I'll give you a couple of examples:

AMT '59 El Camino using Testors Lacquer System Maroon for color and Testors "Wet Look" Clear Gloss for the clear. Both dispensed and shot through my Badger 350:



Same here with Testors Lacquer System Semi Gloss Black for color and Testors "Wet Look" Clear Gloss:



Here I used GM Mystic Teal Metallic from my local body shop --Paint Code 79 WA119B Acrylic Lacquer for color along with an Acrylic Lacquer Gloss Clear again shot through a Badger 350 AB



It took me 3 years to develop a system that I was comfortable with and once I found it then it became my process that I followed and I'm happy with my results these days. If you need any help you know I'm a PM away Mike. Hope this helps you out man.

Almost forgot.....contingency decals ...or any other auto decals really. You just can't beat Slixx for that kind of stuff.

Here's the link: http://ecsvr.com/slx/shopdisplayproduct ... tingencies

Awesome! Thanks again!